On a lonely stretch of Grand Avenue, Chavas Tacos is an outwardly skinny, awkward two-story oasis, brick-layered on the first floor but vinyl-sided on the second.

But on the interior, this Ukrainian Village hole in the wall is, surprisingly, one of the more stylish and modern-looking Mexican fast food joints in the city. While dusty TVs and dirty tables may build the character of a greasy dive, there's nothing wrong with flat-screen HDs and a tasteful flower arrangement, either.

Hope you habla espaol, since the menu is basically in Spanish and seems to be the primary language of the employees. If not, just take a stab and see what you end up with. You can't go wrong with any kind of burrito, whether filled with carne (steak), molida (beef), barbacoa (steamed beef) or lengua (beef tongue); all are served with beans, tomatoes, lettuce and cheese. Tacos are served authentically with onions and cilantro (which seem to blend perfectly with the extra juicy chicken varieties) or American style, with lettuce, tomato and cheese, so make sure to specify which way you're leaning.

While Chavas Tacos is by no means a shack, seating in the taqueria is still limited to a few fancy high stools, so you may want to plan for takeout or delivery. Want to make sure you grab a stool? Pop in bright and early at 5 a.m., when someone will be in the back cooking huevos with sausages, ham and peppers. Sounds like a great way to start or, for some, end your day.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Andy Seifert